Tucked behind a narrow green storefront along pedestrian-minded Maiden Lane, Polpo captures the mood of modern Brit gastro-faire in a stylish, industrial space that yields one of the best meals in Covent Garden. A singular glass-paneled doors open to a counter-style bar flanked by smooth stucco and pounded tin ceiling. The main dining room is small even by Soho standards, to the rear and lined in lofty hardwood floors with clusters of rustic iron chairs and high-top tables arranged along the perimeter of the room.
The Food
A menu of “don’t you dare call this tapas” features an array of small and larger plate specialties that lean toward Italian but with quintessentially British flair. Meals are best begun with portions of potato parmesan crochetta followed by pizza Bianca, veal and porcini meatballs and array of homemade focaccia. Fish and meat courses offer cuttlefish and ink risotto, fritto misto, calf’s liver with sweet onions and sliced flank steak with white truffle cream.
Last Word
With eateries in Soho and Smithfield, Polpo proves a London culinary force worth the brutal weekend waits and tight tabletops.Images: da Polpo London
